Posts Tagged ‘Yewbarrow House’

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

Dead Tree Ferns

Tree Ferns in winter

On 15th March 1879, William Robinson shook up the gardening press by launching a new weekly paper, priced at 1 penny and aimed fairly and squarely at the amateur gardener.  He called the paper “Gardening Illustrated” and seven months later he was boasting: “Our weekly issue is now larger than that of the whole of the horticultural press of the United Kingdom combined”. Of course, in the days before circulation figures were published, there was no evidence for this assertion and it was hotly contested by his rivals.

Gardening Illustrated was launched during the craze for subtropical gardening, which Robinson himself had done so much to promote with his book, “The Subtropical Garden.”  But the public were beginning to realise that exotic plants don’t always survive in our climate and one of the early articles dealt with the problem of what to do with the trunks of dead tree ferns.  Nowadays most people would throw them away but the Victorians had more imaginative ideas.  Robinson recommended using the trunks to display ferns, with a large fern such as a Nephrolepsis or a Lomaria gibba (now known as a Blechnum gibbum) placed in a hole scooped out of the top, with smaller ferns stuck into the trunk along the side.

This is a problem very close to my heart, and I suspect, thousands of others, after last winter.  The photo above shows my tree ferns looking splendid after the first snowfall of winter, but the prolonged cold finished them off, so I was left with 6 lifeless stems. My solution, suggested to me by Mike Tullis of Inglefield Plants (himself the latest in a long line of Victorians), was to decorate the stem with Fascicularia bicolor.   I think it looks good.  All I need to do now is scoop out the top and insert a large fern for that William Robinson look.

Dead tree fern

Tuesday, October 25th, 2011

What to do with Dahlias in the Winter

Dahlia Tubers

The other day on Gardener’s Question Time, Bob Flowerdew gave as his “topical tip” the advice that you should leave your dahlias in the ground over the winter. He said that he’s learnt that the only reason people lifted dahlias was to take cuttings in the spring and if you didn’t want to do that you might as well leave them in the ground, making sure that you give them a good covering of mulch to protect from the frost. If only it were as simple as that.

In fact there are very good reasons to lift dahlias, whether you want to take cuttings or not. First, you are more likely to have a live plant after the winter. Dahlias left in the ground are susceptible to frost (despite the mulch) as well as to anything in the soil which might like to eat them. Secondly, if they are left in the ground they will emerge and come in to flower at least a month after plants which have been brought on in a cold frame. I value that extra month of flowering, especially when I grow them for cut flowers. Thirdly, the tubers will divide, so if you lift them you’ll get extra plants without the faff of taking cuttings.

This photo shows tubers which we have lifted this week and cleaned of soil. They will be put on trays in dry compost and stored in a shed until February when we’ll pot them up and put them in the cold frame. They’ll be in flower before the end of May. Those which we leave in the ground (we leave about a third of our total) won’t show their first shoots until then. Believe me Bob, its worth the extra effort to lift and store dahlia tubers.

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011

Peter Rabbit at the Gardening World Cup

Peter Rabbit

I wanted to use live rabbits in my ‘Mr McGregor’s’ garden for the Gardening World Cup, but the rules wouldn’t allow it. This was a pity because nothing could have been more authentic. Beatrix Potter kept a rabbit hutch by her back door – for the pot of course, not as pets. When I was doing my research at Hill Top the orchard there was overrun with rabbits and there were obvious signs that they’d visited the vegetable patch. The National Trust, who run Hill Top, didn’t know what to do with them, but Beatrix Potter wouldn’t have hesitated. They’d have been shot in a trice and then into the pot.

In the absence of live rabbits I’m very happy to make do with Peter Rabbit. Alan Ward has created this amazing model of Peter Rabbit eating radishes. I’ve taken this photo of Peter in my kitchen garden and I’m hoping that he’s going to look just as splendid in Mr McGregor’s vegetable patch.

Sunday, September 18th, 2011

Why the bumper crop?

Runner Beans

It’s been announced today that this summer is officially the worst on record. Well, I take that with a big dose of salt not least because it seems odd that the worst weather should go hand in hand with the most bountiful harvest. We’ve had a better crop of fruit and veg in our kitchen garden this year than ever before and from what I hear, we’re not alone in that. Why should this be so when the summer has been so cold and damp? One theory has been put forward by Ian Bell who is a biodynamic farmer from Dorchester. He argues that it’s to do with last winter’s heavy snowfall. This is what he says:

“Nitrogen joins with carbon and minute quantities of arsenic, lead and mercury, all of which are held fast in the crystalline structure of the snow and carried to our soils: an infinitely more powerful mediator of fertility than anything you can buy from the garden centre”.

He’s undoubtedly right on the latter point – you won’t find many garden centres listing “arsenic, lead and mercury” among their list of ingredients, and I’m not sure that I want them leaching into my veg.

Whatever the merits of Ian Bell’s argument, there is no doubt at all that the increase in carbon dioxide in the air improves crop yields. It’s common practice for horticulturalists who grow crops under glass to use air enriched with carbon dioxide to improve growth rates. When the increase in carbon dioxide in the air was first recorded, about 70 years ago, it was noted that this could prove of great benefit to humanity because of the effect on crop yields. They have been proved right, but this is a fact which is barely mentioned nowadays, when the increase in carbon dioxide is portrayed as being wholly evil. If the prediction of warmer weather ever turns out to be true we’ll have a double benefit, because there’s nothing crops like better than a little extra warmth.

Friday, September 2nd, 2011

Surprising Survivors Part 13- Musa Basjoo

Banana plants

Following on from our Echium discovery (Surprising Survivors Part 12) we’ve had another lovely surprise in the garden- the discovery of a little colony of banana plants. Three years ago we had two mature banana plants (Musa Basjoo) growing in a corner of the Palm Thicket. To everyone’s surprise, in our last decent summer, which was 2008, they produced fruit. They’re not supposed to fruit outdoors in this country. Bananas are monocarpic, which means that they die when they have flowered, which these duly did. They wouldn’t have survived the awful cold of the subsequent two winters anyway. The place where they had been growing became over-run with Macleyas, an attractive 7ft plant which soon swamps any available space. I’d completely forgotten about the bananas until we came to clear away some of the Macleyas,in preparation for our Open Day. And there we found a family of 8 small banana plants, which had grown from the roots of the mother plant. I can hardly believe it, and I’m looking forward to another crop of bananas if we ever get a decent summer again.

Banana 2

Thursday, September 1st, 2011

The Garden in August 2011

We’ve never known a summer before when we haven’t had to water the garden, not even once. It isn’t that the weather has been continuously poor, just that we’ve not had a single long dry spell. There’s nothing I enjoy more than standing around looking gormless with a hose in my hand, but I suppose that the respite has given us the time to get on with some proper jobs. Our biggest achievement this August has been to get the kitchen garden into shape. Matt has done a tremendous job there, especially in cleaning the raspberry patch of pernicious weeds. There’s one thing about warm wet weather, the weeds love it.

Saturday, August 27th, 2011

Val Bourne’s Dahlias

Dahlias

“It’s not enough to succeed. Others must fail.”

Val Bourne has been a dahlia grower all her life. She’s not just any old dahlia grower like me, she’s on the RHS dahlia panel and they don’t come any grander than that in the world of dahlias. And so I was surprised to hear her confess today that her dahlias have failed this year. It seems that, in her garden in the Cotswolds, they suffered from hot days and cold nights in April and then a couple of late frosts.

This kind of news gives a warm glow to those of us in the cold, wet, north, whose dahlias have been in constant flower since May and have produced an abundant crop of cutting flowers. Ours have never been better or healthier. The truth, of course, has nothing to do with skill and everything to do with luck. I’ve been lucky, she hasn’t.

Val Bourne has concluded that she planted her dahlias out much too early and has resoved not to put them in the garden in future before the middle of June. I think this is much too extreme. Our regime is to pot up the dahlia tubers in February/March and put them in the cold frames. Our cold frames are twice the normal height to give plenty of room for growth. By about mid May, most of the plants will have grown well and developed flower buds. We plant out these strong plants then. We give the weaker plants more time to come on in the cold frames. This way, we invariably get flowers outisde by the end of May and can start cutting in June. This regime works well for us and I don’t think I’d abandon it just because I had some very bad luck with the weather. Think on, Val.

Wednesday, August 24th, 2011

A Cure For Box Blight

Box blight

Is there, after all, a cure for box blight? The story is that a year ago the lovely mature box hedging in our kitchen garden was struck with box blight. We were in the middle of removing it when a chance conversation with Margaret Robinson at the Mammoth Onion gave me a ray of hope (see my posting of 27th August 2010: Box Blight – Is there a cure?). She said that one possible solution was to cut the plant right down to the ground and let it regenerate. It might take a year or two, she said, but the new growth would be healthy. And so that’s what we did, a little late as most of the hedging had already been dug out. Now, 12 months later, just as Mrs Robinson predicted, there’s lots of healthy new growth. Is this, then, a cure for box blight? I’m not so sure, the problem being that some of the plants aren’t showing any signs of re-growth. It may be a case of kill or cure.

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

What is Garden Design?

Garden design photo

I’ve been asked to write down, on a single sheet of paper, what I think are the five most important principles of garden design. It was an interesting exercise, not least because of what I had to leave out for reasons of space- things which are important to me, such as the use of vibrant colour and the need to make the garden productive. This is what I came up with:

Garden Design Principles

1. A Garden for All Seasons
Too many gardens are good for one season and boring or drab for the rest of the year. Good garden design should ensure that gardens look good all year round. To achieve this, the first essential is a strong structure, so that the basic form of the garden is there all the time. In a larger garden strong architectural focal points are essential. Great care should be taken over the choice of trees, shrubs and flowers so that one season doesn’t overwhelm the rest.

2. The Inside-Out Principle
A garden belongs to a house and it’s important to remember that for much of the time a garden will be viewed from the inside looking out. The design of a garden should take account of how it looks from the principal rooms of the house- especially the sitting room, main bedroom and kitchen (most importantly from the kitchen sink if it looks out onto the garden, as it should). This is especially true in winter, when little or no time will be spent outside in the garden. Special attention should be paid to winter planting close to the front door and on paths leading from the house, to give colour and scent at a bleak time of year.

3. Use the borrowed landscape
When a garden is lucky enough to have a view, don’t shut it out. Make the most of a view by incorporating the “borrowed landscape” into the garden. The view from a house should be of the whole vista, but from a garden a ‘framed’ or partial view can be effective.

4. Be True to the Place
Respect the natural attributes of the garden’s situation in respect of climate, soil, architectural style and natural features. If the local stone is sandstone, use sandstone, if it’s limestone, use limestone. Architectural features should complement the style of the house. In this way the garden will blend in with its natural surroundings and plants will thrive in a habitat which suits them.

5. Think long-term.
Avoid the temptation to follow the latest fad or be too ‘conceptual’- it will look good for a while but will quickly become stale. Prefer the traditional over the modern and always respect the basic principles of proportion and scale.
Always take the long view and prepare to be patient, especially when choosing trees and shrubs, whose size and shape when mature must be taken into account.

Monday, August 15th, 2011

Killer Badgers

badger sett

Badgers have such a friendly image that you’d never think of them as vicious killers. And yet twice recently I’ve been told about badgers on killing sprees; in the first case the victims were an entire hut of chickens and in the second some rare-breeed pheasants. Here, their worst crime has been to dig for worms in the lawn, so we’ve been very tolerant of the sett in our fern garden. Our family of badgers do most of their foraging in the sixty acre wood behind us and we’ve often seen them sidling over the cattle grid on their way into the wood, out of harm’s way.

But now, for the first time, a sinister threat has arisen. A large hole, which is quite obviously the start of a new sett, has appeared at the side of the lawn, just by the Japanese pool. When I nonchalantly pointed out the hole to the owner of the rare-breed pheasants she replied that I had every reason to be afraid, very afraid. She told me that a friend of hers had, like me, been rather proud of the badgers in his garden. So much so that he put out food for them and got so used to seeing them from his sitting room window at night that he decided to construct a make-shift burrow for them, right next to the house. To his delight they moved in. He watched them every night making this burrow their home, and even using bricks to enhance the design. It only gradually dawned on him where the badgers were getting the bricks – from underneath his house. The critters were destroying his foundations!

The truth only slowly began to sink in. The Japanese pool, underneath which the new sett was being made, is in the shape of a dam which holds many tons of water and is positioned directly above the house. If the dam gives way the body of water will carry away everything in its path, including the house. I think I’d better block up that hole, just to be on the safe side.