Posts Tagged ‘Slow Food’

Wednesday, October 19th, 2011

Julian Barnes – The Pedant in the Kitchen

Julian BarnesIt’s good news that Julian Barnes has won the Booker Prize for his novella ‘The Sense of an Ending’, but his masterpiece, as every Slow Food follower knows, is ‘The Pedant in the Kitchen’, written in 2003.  It’s a small book with large print, which is a recommendation in itself, but it’s also funny and wise and tells you more about cooking than any book by Jamie Oliver or Delia Smith ever will.

There’s a chapter on Heston Blumenthal, written before this great man became a star, in which he discusses his cooking techniques and this is what he says:

“His emphasis on slow cooking seems to me salutary and admirable.  And by slow he means very slow.  I was cooking oxtail the other day and in the usual way found myself checking half a dozen recipes for how long to give it.  Alistair Little: two hours (you’re joking); Fay Maschler: three; Frances Bissell: four (getting warmer).  I think I gave it five, and two subsequent re-heatings of forty-five minutes each only enhanced the tail’s fork-meltingness.  Mr Blumenthal probably has a recipe that involves giving it the full cycle of the moon”.

Julian Barnes’ favourite cookery writers are Jane Grigson (who he calls “infinitely wise”), Edouard de Pomaine, whose book, ‘Cooking in Ten Minutes’, was published in 1948, and Marcella Hazan, the author of ‘The Essentials of Italian Cuisine’.  These books are perfect for me because they show how to cook fast food in a slow way.  Here’s Marcella Hazan:

“There’s not the slightest justification for the currently fashionable notion that “fresh” pasta is preferable to factory-made dried pasta.  One is not better than the other, they are simply different. They are seldom interchangeable, but in terms of absolute quality they are fully equal”.

I’ll read ‘A Sense of an Ending’, but there’s no chance that it will give me as much pleasure as ‘A Pedant in the Kitchen’

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011

Peter Rabbit at the Gardening World Cup

Peter Rabbit

I wanted to use live rabbits in my ‘Mr McGregor’s’ garden for the Gardening World Cup, but the rules wouldn’t allow it. This was a pity because nothing could have been more authentic. Beatrix Potter kept a rabbit hutch by her back door – for the pot of course, not as pets. When I was doing my research at Hill Top the orchard there was overrun with rabbits and there were obvious signs that they’d visited the vegetable patch. The National Trust, who run Hill Top, didn’t know what to do with them, but Beatrix Potter wouldn’t have hesitated. They’d have been shot in a trice and then into the pot.

In the absence of live rabbits I’m very happy to make do with Peter Rabbit. Alan Ward has created this amazing model of Peter Rabbit eating radishes. I’ve taken this photo of Peter in my kitchen garden and I’m hoping that he’s going to look just as splendid in Mr McGregor’s vegetable patch.

Sunday, September 18th, 2011

Why the bumper crop?

Runner Beans

It’s been announced today that this summer is officially the worst on record. Well, I take that with a big dose of salt not least because it seems odd that the worst weather should go hand in hand with the most bountiful harvest. We’ve had a better crop of fruit and veg in our kitchen garden this year than ever before and from what I hear, we’re not alone in that. Why should this be so when the summer has been so cold and damp? One theory has been put forward by Ian Bell who is a biodynamic farmer from Dorchester. He argues that it’s to do with last winter’s heavy snowfall. This is what he says:

“Nitrogen joins with carbon and minute quantities of arsenic, lead and mercury, all of which are held fast in the crystalline structure of the snow and carried to our soils: an infinitely more powerful mediator of fertility than anything you can buy from the garden centre”.

He’s undoubtedly right on the latter point – you won’t find many garden centres listing “arsenic, lead and mercury” among their list of ingredients, and I’m not sure that I want them leaching into my veg.

Whatever the merits of Ian Bell’s argument, there is no doubt at all that the increase in carbon dioxide in the air improves crop yields. It’s common practice for horticulturalists who grow crops under glass to use air enriched with carbon dioxide to improve growth rates. When the increase in carbon dioxide in the air was first recorded, about 70 years ago, it was noted that this could prove of great benefit to humanity because of the effect on crop yields. They have been proved right, but this is a fact which is barely mentioned nowadays, when the increase in carbon dioxide is portrayed as being wholly evil. If the prediction of warmer weather ever turns out to be true we’ll have a double benefit, because there’s nothing crops like better than a little extra warmth.

Wednesday, September 14th, 2011

What’s in a McDonald’s Hamburger

holstein-cows-holstein-cow

When I took the plunge and bought a dairy cow, I couldn’t bring myself to buy a Holstein.  Holsteins are the black and white cows that you see in the fields everywhere and they are popular with dairy farmers because they have been bred for one purpose and one purpose only – to produce as much milk as possible.  So much milk that when their udder is full it’s grotesquely distended.  I went for a honey coloured Jersey instead even though they produce half the milk of a Holstein, but at least I could bear to look at the thing.

Holsteins produce good milk, but poor meat, which is why they are never used for meat production. But this causes a problem because cows need to have calves in order to keep on making milk and half of the calves are male which, for obvious reasons, are hopeless at making milk.  So it’s the normal practice to shoot male calves when they are five days old. Farmers don’t like doing this, but they’ve no alternative as Holstein meat is unsaleable.  Until now that is. The marketing guys at McDonalds have ridden to their rescue.  They know the value of letting their customers know that they sell only British beef.   They also know that their customers aren’t at all fussy about the quality of what they eat.  Why not, then, sell them meat that no self-respecting butcher would touch, but which they can truthfully call British.  A dairy farmer on Farmer Today gave away the story when he explained that it costs him £800 to feed a male calf for a year, but McDonalds will pay him £900 for the carcase and even a paltry £100 profit makes it worthwhile. I was amused to hear the farmer add that McDonalds’s aren’t alone in this racket – his other customer is Tescos.

Monday, September 12th, 2011

The Throw Away Society

rats_shopping_at_dustbin

The usual fate of a “buy one, get one free” offer is that the one you pay for gets eaten and the “free” one sits in the fridge until the sell by date passes, when it gets thrown in the bin.  Fridges are essentially cupboards for perishable items and most of the good food which gets thrown away has been sitting in the fridge.  This is a surprisingly modern trend – when the Queen was crowned in 1952 fridges were very rare – in fact only 2% of households had them.  Fridge-freezers only became popular 25 years later. Food snobs like me take a lot of pleasure in pouring scorn on the “bogof” generation and their shockingly wasteful habits, but in truth most of us are just as bad, at least I am.  The only difference is that my waste food isn’t in the fridge, its in the garden.  It was a mortifying experience for me to walk round the kitchen garden today and see just how much of the summer produce hadn’t been picked or had gone to seed. Red currants, runner beans, lettuces, all going to waste, because I haven’t had the time or the energy to harvest them at the correct time. My waste will end up on the compost heap; theirs in the bin – that’s the only difference.

Saturday, September 10th, 2011

The Extinction Myth

Dodo_tenniel

I have a rule never to read anything in the papers about sport or the royal family.  There’s more than enough drivel to wade through as it is.  But I broke the rule today when I saw a headline which read ” ‘Mankind is faced with extinction’,  says Charles”.  ”What’s the old fool on about now?”, I wondered.  It turned out that he has become the president of the World Wildlife Fund and used the opportunity of his inaugural address to say that we are so busy driving animals to extinction through our abuse of the planet’s resources that we run the risk of annihilating ourselves. He calls it “the sixth great extinction event”.

Now it happens that only a few days ago the science writer, Matt Ridley, examined in The Times the facts about the “sixth mass extinction” (another such event was the asteroid that wiped out the dinosaurs).  He referred to the analysis made by the scholar Willis Eschenbach of the 190 bird and mammal species that have become extinct globally in the last 500 years, as recorded by the American Museum of Natural History.  Only 9 continental species (as opposed to those confined to an island),  have gone extinct – and they are, the bluebuck, the Labrador Duck, the Algerian gazelle, the Carolina parakeet, the slender-billed grackle, the passenger pigeon, the Colombian grebe, the Atilan grebe and the Omilteme cottontail rabbit.  Only the last three vanished in the last sixty years.  Not one of the nine became extinct because of climate change or the loss of rain forest.  In Eschenbach’s words “This lack of even one continental forest bird or mammal extinction, in a record encompassing 500 years of massive cutting, burning, harvesting, inundating, clearing and general widespread destruction and fragmentation of forests on all the continents of the world provides a final and clear proof that the species-area relationship simply does not work to predict extinctions” .

Prince Charles is becoming more curmudgeonly every year, which is a pity.  On any rational analysis the world has become a far better place during his lifetime.  One indicator of this is that wildlife is thriving and that rates of extinction (which are perfectly normal in nature) are falling. It’s daft of him to say otherwise, but the WWF makes its money from its message of doom and Charles wouldn’t have been invited to become their President if he didn’t agree.

Thursday, September 8th, 2011

The Cottage in the Wood

Cottage in the Wood 2

Nowadays every restaurant worth its salt proclaims that they are passionate about using local produce. Most of them lie. As a matter of fact 70% of all the food that restaurants use is imported, so there are a lot of porkies being told. But one restaurant which is true to their word, I’m sure, is the lovely Cottage in the Wood and tonight the food was not only local but, for a good part, foraged by hand by the owners, Liam and Kath Berney. The Cottage in the Wood is in the middle of the Whinlatter Forest, overlooking Skiddaw – in other words prime foraging country. I was there for a “Cumbria on a Plate ” dinner, hosted by the fabulous Annette Gibbons and I’m sure that I wasn’t alone in getting a sinking feeling when Annette announced that the menu would revolve around ‘foraging’.

I couldn’t have been more wrong – the meal was delightful – delicious, inventive and just plain different. As an example, a dish of home smoked mackerel was served with foraged herbs and hogweed “capers”. Hogweed is that poisonous plant which grows 18ft tall and which you are supposed to report to the authorities if you see it. But, as Annette pointed out (we were glad of the reassurance), it’s only poisonous if the sap gets on your skin and Liam had collected the berries to create the capers. Another inventive dish was game terrine, made from grouse, pigeon, pheasant and partridge, which was served with damson gin sorbet (damsons are found in the hedgerows in these parts) and hot bon bons. Because wine wouldn’t go with a gin sorbet this was accompanied by Loweswater Gold Beer.

When my elderly mother ate at L’Enclume she proclaimed in a loud voice, so that all the stern, solemn waiters could hear, that the meal was “pretentious rubbish”. There’s nothing pretentious about the Cottage in the Wood. Liam and Kath are enjoying themselves too much and their infectious enthusiasm make an evening there just plain good fun.

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

Appleby Creamery Organic Brie

Brie and celery

If this cheese is anything to go by, we are beating the French at their own game. It’s said that there are more artisan cheesemakers in England that in France now, but I hadn’t expected to find an English Brie which was better than the French. Actually I wouldn’t usually bother with Brie, it’s just too bland for my taste, but the Appleby Creamery Organic Brie is something else. It’s the sort of thing you’ll never find in the supermarket, but it’s available at my favourite shop, Low Sizergh Barn Farm Shop. Their cheese counter is amazing (it runs the entire width of the shop) and this Brie is one of the stars. Like all Bries, it’s no good unless it’s ripe. If it feels at all firm, I stick it in the cupboard (never the fridge) until it starts to run. Then, it spreads nicely on to a stick of celery. My eldest daughter tells me that celery has negative calories, which, if you believe it, means that you can spread the Brie on thickly and eat it with an easy conscience.

Monday, August 29th, 2011

Slow Life Tomatoes

Tomatoes

Shop bought tomatoes are usually vile. “Vine tomatoes” are even viler because insult is added to injury by being charged double for the same tasteless product with a piece of stalk attached.

The only tomatoes worth eating in this country are those you grow yourself. We are picking ours now and they have a deep intense flavour which I find irresistible and so tomatoes are dominating my eating right now.

Here’s my recipe for a simple tomato sauce to go with pasta:

Pick 8 good sized tomatoes. They must be dark red in colour. The redder and squishier the better. When tomatoes are used in a sauce they must be skinned, but nothing could be easier. Bring a pan of water to the boil, drop in the tomatoes, count to ten and remove them. The skins will slip off. Chop up the tomatoes, removing any bits which are green or hard. Then put some olive oil into a frying pan and slowly cook one large chopped onion and one chopped clove of garlic. When they are soft throw in the tomatoes. After a couple of minutes of fairly fierce cooking add a large piece of salted butter . Let it all bubble away while the spaghetti is being cooked. The salt in the butter and the salt in the spaghetti water is all the seasoning you’ll need. I always add a knob of butter to the spaghetti after it has been drained. Don’t worry if you’ve run out of parmesan- it doesn’t need it.

This dish is simplicity itself, and is the epitome of Slow Food, even though the preparation and cooking time is only a quarter of an hour.

If you don’t fancy spaghetti, the sauce is delicious as a topping on thick toast- I think the Italians call it crostini

Monday, July 18th, 2011

Patisserie Coin de rue

As a foodie film Patisserie Coin de rue will never rival Babette’s Feast, not least because the main character is an annoyingly petulant teenager, but it’s a feast for the eyes nevertheless. The film is centred on a patisserie in a Tokyo suburb, which specialises in making lovely cakes and pastries. It’s a Japanese film, made for a Japanese audience, although it will be seen in the west after winning the “Best East Meets West” prize at the Santa Barbara Film Festival earlier this year. The film is completely absorbing because of the glimpse which it gives into the way the Japanese treat food as art. It’s about creating food which looks beautiful and tastes exquisite. They won’t accept any compromise; they are entirely devoted to perfection.The art which they are practising may have its origins in France but it’s raised to a completely different level in Japan.
There’s one thing which will strike any westerner watching this film as odd- the fact that although everyone in it spends their life making and tasting pastries, not a single person carries an ounce of surplus fat. Very Japanese.