The last time I saw Wagyu cattle looking this magnificent was in Kobe, Japan, on a very hot summer’s day. They were in a large barn in temperatures approaching 100 fahrenheit, being cooled by enormous fans, which had the dual purpose of controlling the powerful stench of ammonia. In Japan, this is how Wagyu cattle are kept year round- it is in effect factory farming. In contrast our Wagyus have the freedom of the open field and access to fresh grass rather than the imported grain which is fed to their Japanese counterparts. Today, our English Wagyus, who have been raised from embryos, looked to me to be the picture of health. In three month’s time they will be ready for slaughter- the very first since we began the embryo programme three years ago. We are fortunate in this country that we have the option to give our cattle the freedom of the open fields- unfortunately the Japanese don’t have the choice because they don’t have the land available. Nor do they have the land to grow their own grain, which is why they rely on imports from Australia and Canada. It won’t be long before we find out whether our superior methods of husbandry will lead to superior meat. Now that would be something.