Cafe Bientot in Okayama is a cosmopolitan place. It has a French name, with an English-language menu, sells German beers and Italian food. They have a set lunch of soup, salad and a small calzone pizza for 600 yen (£3.65) but when I eat Italian in Japan I always go for the spaghetti vongole. In Japan, you can eat Italian, French or Chinese, just as in any other country, with one crucial difference – in Japan, the food is very rarely prepared by a native of the respective country – the chef will almost always be Japanese. And because the Japanese are perfectionists in everything they do, the food will always be as good, or better than the original. At the Cafe Bientot they had a wood-burning oven for the pizzas, as authentic as anything in Italy, producing pizzas as good as those in Naples. I ordered the spaghetti vongole with complete confidence. The clams are always fresh; the sauce, made with garlic and white wine, always exactly as it should be. This dish was expensive by Japanese standards at 1,200 yen (£7.25) but it was just as good as any I’ve had in Sicily, which is my second favourite place to eat.