Archive for the ‘Slow Food’ Category

Saturday, September 4th, 2010

The Horticultural Show- A great British Tradition

rjb
Roger Binghams’s name is rarely used without the prefix “irrepressible”- there is a hint as to why in this photo of him. Roger was a guest today at our annual garden party and although there were weightier matters to hand, he was full of irrepressible excitement at his success in the Milnthorpe Horticultural Society, from which he had just come. He clutched a handful of certificates for prizes, in 3rd, 2nd and 1st places, in categories such as Lemon Curd and Raspberry Jam (if my memory serves me well). He was particularly proud of the fact that he has been winning prizes at this show since 1952, when he was 5 years old.

Roger’s exuberance reminded me of Antonio Carluccio’s rant against the English, when he said they couldn’t care less about food (see my posting for August 26th, headed ‘Antonio Carluccio talking nonsense’). What Mr Carluccio doesn’t understand and probably doesn’t know is that every town and village in England is holding similar events to the one attended by Roger, and they are all well attended by people passionate about food. As an example, the Evening Mail today has an article about the 68th annual Greenodd and District Horticultural Show, held in their Village Hall. The show attracted a record 759 entries, from people of all ages, including 190 from the village primary school and prizes were awarded in categories as diverse as “the best plate of coloured potatoes” and “the best exhibit of tomatoes”. I’m certain that in 50 years time some of those schoolchildren will be exitedly clutching prize certificates, much as Roger did today.

Friday, August 20th, 2010

L’Enclume on the ascendant

l'enclume
It was a brilliant move by Simon Rogan to take over the lease of Howbarrow Farm  in Cartmel and secure control of the supply of organic produce to L’Enclume.   Raymond Blanc has a kitchen garden at Le Manoir, which supplies his restaurant.  He is forever on TV seen plucking a baby carrot from the ground and gazing at it with intense Gallic admiration.  I’ve visited the kitchen garden at Le Manoir and I’ve seen the number of covers served every day in their restaurant and one thing is certain- the garden can only supply a tiny proportion of the produce which they use.  With L’Enclume it’s different- not only is the scale of the operation much smaller than at Le Manoir, but the source of supply is many times larger.  There is of course the problem of seasonality, because in England things go in and out of season very quickly, which affects the availability of supply- but this can be overcome to some extent by constantly varying the menu.  Now Simon has leapt into 4th place in the Good Food Guide ranking of the top restaurants in Britain- only just behind Le Manoir.  Well done Simon- this is richly deserved- and watch your back Raymond.

Sunday, August 15th, 2010

Eat Slow

eat slow britain
It seems that everywhere you turn just now there’s some-one promoting the Slow Life. Today its the turn of Alastair Sawday, who has published a new book called “Eat Slow Britain”. It’s the author’s personal selection of producers, pubs and restaurants which adhere to Slow Food principles. I picked up a copy at the Lunesdale Arms which is one of only a handful of places which the author has chosen in our neck of the woods. It has been one of the most reliable places to eat since it was opened by Emma Gillibrand in 2001. Back then, the Lunesdale Arms was one of the first pubs to smarten up and serve good food using local produce, without promoting themselves as a “gastro-pub”. Since then lots of similar places have opened up nearby but the Lunesdale Arms has always stayed ahead of the game. On some nights there you will be treated to Amy Worth of The Heroes of She, fronting her Jazz band, which makes the place very special indeed.

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Jasper Ackroyd part 2- Making Bacon

Jasper and the pig Part 2
In all the time I’ve been raising pigs I’ve never had any great success with bacon. So when Jasper Ackroyd, who makes a living from curing bacon, offered to come to the Damson Dene Hotel to give a master class to my chefs, I couldn’t have been more chuffed. I provided him with the carcase of a Saddleback pig, split into two, including the head and the tail. Jasper asked for some kit, including “drug dealer’s” scales, to weigh the ingredients to the nearest gramme. I had brought in some Victoria plums from the garden, which Jasper seized upon to make a plum cure, which he devised on the spot. When I met with the chefs later I’ve never seen them so enthused. It was an inspiring day and Jasper will be back in a few weeks to taste what he conjured up today.

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Jasper Ackroyd- Living the Dream Part 1

Yurtville
Jasper Ackroyd doesn’t just dream of the Slow Life- he lives it. His home is a Yurt on an organic farm in Wiltshire. He lives “off the grid”, relying on a gas-fired generator and solar panels for electricity, but the generator will soon be replaced by a wind turbine. He eats vegetables grown on the farm and drinks unpasteurised milk straight from the cow. He rises with the birds and goes to sleep with the birds, so that in winter he lives in what he calls a state of semi-hibernation.
Jasper makes his living from curing meat. All is explained in his website- http://www.baconwizard.co.uk/, which also contains his fascinating biography. I met Jasper at a Slow Food meeting at Prue Leith’s house in the Cotswolds (see entry for July 17th) after which he kindly agreed to abandon the comfort of his Yurt to spend a few days in the Lake District teaching my chefs the art of curing pork, for which we have today supplied a whole saddle-back pig, cut neatly in two. About which, more later….

Saturday, July 17th, 2010

Slow Food’s Educational Mission


Catherine Gazzoli, who never wastes a single minute in any day, has recruited no fewer than three new assistants to help her in promoting Slow Food’s educational programme. They explained their mission in the very elegant surroundings of Prue Leith’s Cotswold home at Slow Food’s AGM today. Three missionaries are needed because one deals with tiny tots, one with school children and one with undergraduates. We were told that there is now firm scientific evidence that the food which a mother consumes during pregnancy can have lasting effects on a child’s well being and that this justifies a Slow Food campaign to educate expectant mothers on what they should or should not eat. The audience consisted mainly of “baby-boomers”, whose own mothers were blissfully unaware of ant of these strictures and who smoked and drank contentedly throughout their pregnancies. Ironically this is the same generation who are now accused of living too long and whose pensions are, apparently driving the country into bankruptcy as a result of their longevity. The same generation who have endured a succession of pious entreaties from the government as to what we should or should not eat, mostly to do with dairy products and animal fats, all of which has proved to be tosh. I’m sure that more than one member of the audience wondered whether the new “scientific” advice being handed out by Slow Food will suffer the dsame fate. “Good, clean and fair” is all I need to know.
The video show the Slow Food delegates enjoying a picnic lunch on the terrace in Prue Leith’s lovely garden.

Friday, June 25th, 2010

Max, aged 5, catches a fish and eats it raw


The Japanese like their fish fresh.  They eat live octopus, which is served with a pair of scissors which are used to cut off the tentacles.  The disadvantage of this is that the suckers still operate and they can stick to your tongue, which makes swallowing difficult.
Tonight I’m at a fish restaurant which has a stream running through it, which is teeming with sea bream.  If you want, you can catch your own fish, which the restaurant will prepare the way you want it.  I’m given a simple rod and line and some shrimp bait.  Within a minute I’ve got a fish on the line.  Its a good size and I ask the waitress to have half of it boiled and the other half served raw.
We are joined at dinner by Philip, his wife Yoko and their two young children.  The eldest, Max, aged 5, has a go with the rod and proudly lands a fish.  His father asks him how he would like to eat the fish.  “Raw”, replies Max.  Good chap. When the fish arrives at the table there are still signs of life in the head and fins, even though the flesh has been removed (as this video shows)  The same applies with a lobster, which is brought to the table with its tentacles twitching, even though all the white flesh has been removed.
By the way,  it’s absolutely delicious.  Slow food at its finest.

Tuesday, June 15th, 2010

Morecambe Bay

morecambe bay
No matter what I say
All that I really love
Is the rain that flattens on the bay
And the eel grass in the cove

E. St Vincent Millais

To me Morecambe Bay is a view. To Tony it’s his tea. I thought I loved and appreciated the Bay as much as anyone until I met Tony. Tony understands the Bay and he’s the only person I’ve met who doesn’t fear it.
The Bay has a fearsome reputation. Its quicksands claim lives every year. These aren’t the quicksands of the movies, which suck the victim under. The sands of Morecambe Bay are much crueller- they suck you up to the knees and hold you there until the tide comes in and drowns you. My youngest daughter, when only four, got stuck in the sands off the beach at Arnside and when I pulled her out of her wellington boots the suction of the sand was so strong that I couldn’t pull her boots out of the sand.
Tony lives in a cottage right on the beach and has grown to know the Bay so well that he thinks nothing of venturing out on his own to cross it. He described to me the enormous beds of mussels which lie in the Bay, acres of them, a natural harvest which is there for the plucking. Which is about as close to Thoreau’s idea of the Slow Life as you can get, I reckon.

Morecambe_Bay,_abandoned_car

Sunday, June 13th, 2010

Bunny Guinness and Prince Charles

Bunny_Guinness
Of all the well known names we came across at the Chelsea Flower Show, I was particularly pleased to meet Bunny Guinness. We are on the same wavelength as far as gardening is concerned, not least on the subject of Slow Food. In today’s Telegraph Bunny Guinness manages to devote three whole pages in praise of Slow Food. She quotes a speech made by Prince Charles at a Slow Food event at Highgove in which the Prince says:
“The point about the Slow Food movement is reminding people about the enjoyment of proper food and how it is all linked to the management of the landscape and the countryside with all the intimate connections between food production and culture. So, I wanted to say that it’s not just Slow Food but Slow Agriculture, Slow Healthcare and a few other things beside. All these things are linked.”

Which is about as good a definition of Slow Life as we are going to find.

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

A Slap in the Face from Booths

catherine gazzoli 2
Radio Cumbria, after hearing about my dismay at the tie-up between Slow Food UK and the supermarket chain, Booths, invited me to share my thoughts with the listeners to their Breakfast Show this morning and to my surprise they asked Slow Food’s Chief Executive, Catherine Gazzoli to discuss the subject with me. Catherine is the feisty, dynamic, bundle of energy who has done so much to transform the fortunes of Slow Food since she took up the reigns (see my posting of February 4th).
She explained that 25% of Booth’s food products are now locally supplied and that they are at the vanguard among supermarkets in supporting local suppliers. Catherine lives in London, after moving from America and from that perspective I can fully understand why she is so impressed with what Booths offers. But Booths is a supermarket who can only survive by competing with Tesco’s and Morrisons which means that the great bulk of what they sell is junk which does not, by any stretch of the imagination meet the Slow Food criteria of Good, Clean and Fair. And in Cumbria, unlike in London or America, there are still lots and lots of independent butchers, greengrocers, bakers, farm shops and farmer’s markets which undoubtedly do supply food which is wholly Good Clean and Fair. Which is why, to all those independent traders, the news of the tie-in with Booths must have come as a slap in the face.