Archive for the ‘Slow Food’ Category

Monday, January 16th, 2012

Why I Love Japan Part 7 – The Slow Life


My home town of Grange-over-Sands is the archetypal slow town.  Its citizens, most of them being elderly, move slowly; for them the 30 mph sign isn’t a speed limit it’s an unattainable dream.  Grange is almost unique in the modern world in having an abundance of independent food shops so that you can do your weekly shop without visiting a supermarket – which is handy as there isn’t one.  It’s an ideal candidate for becoming a “Slow Town” under a scheme promoted by the Slow Food movement and last year, with the backing of Slow Food, I proposed this to the Town Council. Unfortunately my proposal was rejected, not on the grounds of cost (because I’d anticipated that by agreeing to underwrite the costs) but with the unassailable logic of their inherent slowness, or to put it another way, they were so slow witted and lethargic that they couldn’t be bothered.

If the idea had been proposed in Japan, I’ve no doubt it would have been welcomed enthusiastically.  The barrenness of being busy, as Carla Carlisle puts it, is something well known to the Japanese,  whose working hours are punishingly long. “Slow” is big in Japan, so much so that whole cities have become “Slow Cities”*, and the Slow Food movement has more members in Japan than any country except Italy.

The extraordinary thing is that whilst most Japanese opt for the city life with no access to a garden or an allotment, the possibility of living the good life is greater there than in any other developed country.  This video tells the story of a young couple, Sean and Misa, who were given a farm in Shikoku rent-free on the sole condition that they cultivated the land to prevent it from being reclaimed by the forest.  There are dozens of abandoned farmhouses in the same community and all over Japan, and so the opportunity taken up by Sean and Misa is available to many more.

*Here’s the ‘Slow Life’ Declaration of the Japanese city of Kakegawa, which I think is rather lovely and should be read, ever so slowly, to the Town Councillors of Grange:

The practice of the “Slow Life” involves the following eight themes:

SLOW PACE: We value the culture of walking, to be fit and to reduce traffic accidents.

SLOW WEAR: We respect and cherish our beautiful traditional costumes, including woven and dyed fabrics, Japanese kimonos and Japanese night robes (yukata).

SLOW FOOD: We enjoy Japanese food culture, such as Japanese dishes and tea ceremony, and safe local ingredients.

SLOW HOUSE: We respect houses built with wood, bamboo, and paper, lasting over one hundred or two hundred years, and are careful to make things durably and ultimately, to conserve our environment.

SLOW INDUSTRY: We take care of our forests, through our agriculture and forestry, conduct sustainable farming with human labor, and ultimately spread urban farms and green tourism.

SLOW EDUCATION: We pay less attention to academic achievement, and create a society in which people can enjoy arts, hobbies, and sports throughout our lifetimes, and where all generations can communicate well with each other.

SLOW AGING: We aim to age with grace and be self-reliant throughout our lifetimes.

SLOW LIFE: Based on the philosophy of life stated above, we live our lives with nature and the seasons, saving our resources and energy.

Saturday, November 19th, 2011

Asda’s Make-Believe Wagyu Beef

Wagyu

At Gordon Ramsay’s Maze Grill in London I was offered an 8 oz Wagyu steak for £110. A lovely waitress came to my table holding a tray on which was laid out a selection of steaks and she tried to justify the high price of the Wagyu meat by saying that Wagyus received much more tender care than any other beef cattle, so much so that they were even given a daily massage. She spoke sincerely and probably had no idea that she was talking poppycock. There was no point in ruining her day by telling her so. The truth is that this meat had been reared by an Aussie farmer who wouldn’t dream of massaging his Sheila, let alone his cattle. The meat had come frozen from Australia and the only thing that was more outrageous than its price was its carbon footprint.

But Gordon Ramsay’s steaks sold well and the word got round to the marketing folk at Asda. They discovered that the reason Ramsay bought his steaks from Australia was that there were precious few Wagyus available in the UK. Certainly not enough to supply a supermarket chain. So they devised a cunning plan, which was to inseminate British cows with semen from a Wagyu bull and sell the resultant beef as Wagyu. Any Wagyu breeder would have told them that this scheme was doomed to failure as the intra-muscular fat, which is unique to the Wagyu breed, can’t be achieved from cross-breeeding. The Japanese have experimented by cross-breeding all the best British breeds, such as Hereford and Angus, with negative results. You only get the Wagyu marbling from pure-bred animals.

This didn’t deter the numpties at Asda who, with a cynicism which beggars belief, cross-bred with Holstein-Friesians, which aren’t even beef cattle (they are bred for their milk and their beef is useless). To add insult to injury they are slaughtering their beasts at between 15 and 24 months, about half the recommended maturity.

Needless to say the result is rubbish and is an insult to the name of Wagyu beef. This is what Phil Howard, who holds two Michelin stars at The Square in Mayfair, had to say after tasting it: “I’m a bit shocked. The truth is there’s not enough marbling and it tastes unremarkable. I’d have rejected both pieces of meat. If you’d have taken this round the corner to Umu (a Japanese restaurant) they’d have chucked you out”.

In my opinion Asda are guilty of fraud and they should be prosecuted by Trading Standards officials. But what chance is there of them taking on a big guy like Asda, when they get so much fun persecuting the little guys who can’t fight back?

Wednesday, October 19th, 2011

Julian Barnes – The Pedant in the Kitchen

Julian BarnesIt’s good news that Julian Barnes has won the Booker Prize for his novella ‘The Sense of an Ending’, but his masterpiece, as every Slow Food follower knows, is ‘The Pedant in the Kitchen’, written in 2003.  It’s a small book with large print, which is a recommendation in itself, but it’s also funny and wise and tells you more about cooking than any book by Jamie Oliver or Delia Smith ever will.

There’s a chapter on Heston Blumenthal, written before this great man became a star, in which he discusses his cooking techniques and this is what he says:

“His emphasis on slow cooking seems to me salutary and admirable.  And by slow he means very slow.  I was cooking oxtail the other day and in the usual way found myself checking half a dozen recipes for how long to give it.  Alistair Little: two hours (you’re joking); Fay Maschler: three; Frances Bissell: four (getting warmer).  I think I gave it five, and two subsequent re-heatings of forty-five minutes each only enhanced the tail’s fork-meltingness.  Mr Blumenthal probably has a recipe that involves giving it the full cycle of the moon”.

Julian Barnes’ favourite cookery writers are Jane Grigson (who he calls “infinitely wise”), Edouard de Pomaine, whose book, ‘Cooking in Ten Minutes’, was published in 1948, and Marcella Hazan, the author of ‘The Essentials of Italian Cuisine’.  These books are perfect for me because they show how to cook fast food in a slow way.  Here’s Marcella Hazan:

“There’s not the slightest justification for the currently fashionable notion that “fresh” pasta is preferable to factory-made dried pasta.  One is not better than the other, they are simply different. They are seldom interchangeable, but in terms of absolute quality they are fully equal”.

I’ll read ‘A Sense of an Ending’, but there’s no chance that it will give me as much pleasure as ‘A Pedant in the Kitchen’

Friday, September 23rd, 2011

Mr McGregor Takes Shape

Mr McGregor

This is me 20 years on. Alan Ward used the mould which he had taken of me on August 5th (see http://www.slow-life.co.uk/2011/08/05/making-mr-mcgregor/), added a few wrinkles, white hair and a beard to create Mr McGregor. I’m happy to say that it looks nothing like me, but it’s a sobering thought that I’m going to get more and more like it when I look in the mirror as the years wear on.

I’ve now got to get Mr McGregor and Alan’s model of Peter Rabbit to Huis Ten Bosch, which is near Nagasaki in southern Japan. They fit into one large suitcase, marked “Fragile” which, together with my other luggage, is quite a handful. The journey needs 5 taxis, 2 planes, 2 trains and a bus. Today I made the first leg of the journey to London and I had a really heartening experience at Euston Station, which I wouldn’t have had down as the friendliest place in Britain. To get from the platform to the taxi rank you need to negotiate three steep flights of stairs and to my amazement, as I stood looking helpless with my luggage at the top of each one a stranger offered to help me carry them down. I thought that only happened to blondes and little old ladies, but on reflection perhaps I look more like Mr McGregor than I’m prepared to admit.

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011

Peter Rabbit at the Gardening World Cup

Peter Rabbit

I wanted to use live rabbits in my ‘Mr McGregor’s’ garden for the Gardening World Cup, but the rules wouldn’t allow it. This was a pity because nothing could have been more authentic. Beatrix Potter kept a rabbit hutch by her back door – for the pot of course, not as pets. When I was doing my research at Hill Top the orchard there was overrun with rabbits and there were obvious signs that they’d visited the vegetable patch. The National Trust, who run Hill Top, didn’t know what to do with them, but Beatrix Potter wouldn’t have hesitated. They’d have been shot in a trice and then into the pot.

In the absence of live rabbits I’m very happy to make do with Peter Rabbit. Alan Ward has created this amazing model of Peter Rabbit eating radishes. I’ve taken this photo of Peter in my kitchen garden and I’m hoping that he’s going to look just as splendid in Mr McGregor’s vegetable patch.

Sunday, September 18th, 2011

Why the bumper crop?

Runner Beans

It’s been announced today that this summer is officially the worst on record. Well, I take that with a big dose of salt not least because it seems odd that the worst weather should go hand in hand with the most bountiful harvest. We’ve had a better crop of fruit and veg in our kitchen garden this year than ever before and from what I hear, we’re not alone in that. Why should this be so when the summer has been so cold and damp? One theory has been put forward by Ian Bell who is a biodynamic farmer from Dorchester. He argues that it’s to do with last winter’s heavy snowfall. This is what he says:

“Nitrogen joins with carbon and minute quantities of arsenic, lead and mercury, all of which are held fast in the crystalline structure of the snow and carried to our soils: an infinitely more powerful mediator of fertility than anything you can buy from the garden centre”.

He’s undoubtedly right on the latter point – you won’t find many garden centres listing “arsenic, lead and mercury” among their list of ingredients, and I’m not sure that I want them leaching into my veg.

Whatever the merits of Ian Bell’s argument, there is no doubt at all that the increase in carbon dioxide in the air improves crop yields. It’s common practice for horticulturalists who grow crops under glass to use air enriched with carbon dioxide to improve growth rates. When the increase in carbon dioxide in the air was first recorded, about 70 years ago, it was noted that this could prove of great benefit to humanity because of the effect on crop yields. They have been proved right, but this is a fact which is barely mentioned nowadays, when the increase in carbon dioxide is portrayed as being wholly evil. If the prediction of warmer weather ever turns out to be true we’ll have a double benefit, because there’s nothing crops like better than a little extra warmth.

Monday, September 12th, 2011

The Throw Away Society

rats_shopping_at_dustbin

The usual fate of a “buy one, get one free” offer is that the one you pay for gets eaten and the “free” one sits in the fridge until the sell by date passes, when it gets thrown in the bin.  Fridges are essentially cupboards for perishable items and most of the good food which gets thrown away has been sitting in the fridge.  This is a surprisingly modern trend – when the Queen was crowned in 1952 fridges were very rare – in fact only 2% of households had them.  Fridge-freezers only became popular 25 years later. Food snobs like me take a lot of pleasure in pouring scorn on the “bogof” generation and their shockingly wasteful habits, but in truth most of us are just as bad, at least I am.  The only difference is that my waste food isn’t in the fridge, its in the garden.  It was a mortifying experience for me to walk round the kitchen garden today and see just how much of the summer produce hadn’t been picked or had gone to seed. Red currants, runner beans, lettuces, all going to waste, because I haven’t had the time or the energy to harvest them at the correct time. My waste will end up on the compost heap; theirs in the bin – that’s the only difference.

Saturday, September 10th, 2011

The Extinction Myth

Dodo_tenniel

I have a rule never to read anything in the papers about sport or the royal family.  There’s more than enough drivel to wade through as it is.  But I broke the rule today when I saw a headline which read ” ‘Mankind is faced with extinction’,  says Charles”.  ”What’s the old fool on about now?”, I wondered.  It turned out that he has become the president of the World Wildlife Fund and used the opportunity of his inaugural address to say that we are so busy driving animals to extinction through our abuse of the planet’s resources that we run the risk of annihilating ourselves. He calls it “the sixth great extinction event”.

Now it happens that only a few days ago the science writer, Matt Ridley, examined in The Times the facts about the “sixth mass extinction” (another such event was the asteroid that wiped out the dinosaurs).  He referred to the analysis made by the scholar Willis Eschenbach of the 190 bird and mammal species that have become extinct globally in the last 500 years, as recorded by the American Museum of Natural History.  Only 9 continental species (as opposed to those confined to an island),  have gone extinct – and they are, the bluebuck, the Labrador Duck, the Algerian gazelle, the Carolina parakeet, the slender-billed grackle, the passenger pigeon, the Colombian grebe, the Atilan grebe and the Omilteme cottontail rabbit.  Only the last three vanished in the last sixty years.  Not one of the nine became extinct because of climate change or the loss of rain forest.  In Eschenbach’s words “This lack of even one continental forest bird or mammal extinction, in a record encompassing 500 years of massive cutting, burning, harvesting, inundating, clearing and general widespread destruction and fragmentation of forests on all the continents of the world provides a final and clear proof that the species-area relationship simply does not work to predict extinctions” .

Prince Charles is becoming more curmudgeonly every year, which is a pity.  On any rational analysis the world has become a far better place during his lifetime.  One indicator of this is that wildlife is thriving and that rates of extinction (which are perfectly normal in nature) are falling. It’s daft of him to say otherwise, but the WWF makes its money from its message of doom and Charles wouldn’t have been invited to become their President if he didn’t agree.

Thursday, September 8th, 2011

The Cottage in the Wood

Cottage in the Wood 2

Nowadays every restaurant worth its salt proclaims that they are passionate about using local produce. Most of them lie. As a matter of fact 70% of all the food that restaurants use is imported, so there are a lot of porkies being told. But one restaurant which is true to their word, I’m sure, is the lovely Cottage in the Wood and tonight the food was not only local but, for a good part, foraged by hand by the owners, Liam and Kath Berney. The Cottage in the Wood is in the middle of the Whinlatter Forest, overlooking Skiddaw – in other words prime foraging country. I was there for a “Cumbria on a Plate ” dinner, hosted by the fabulous Annette Gibbons and I’m sure that I wasn’t alone in getting a sinking feeling when Annette announced that the menu would revolve around ‘foraging’.

I couldn’t have been more wrong – the meal was delightful – delicious, inventive and just plain different. As an example, a dish of home smoked mackerel was served with foraged herbs and hogweed “capers”. Hogweed is that poisonous plant which grows 18ft tall and which you are supposed to report to the authorities if you see it. But, as Annette pointed out (we were glad of the reassurance), it’s only poisonous if the sap gets on your skin and Liam had collected the berries to create the capers. Another inventive dish was game terrine, made from grouse, pigeon, pheasant and partridge, which was served with damson gin sorbet (damsons are found in the hedgerows in these parts) and hot bon bons. Because wine wouldn’t go with a gin sorbet this was accompanied by Loweswater Gold Beer.

When my elderly mother ate at L’Enclume she proclaimed in a loud voice, so that all the stern, solemn waiters could hear, that the meal was “pretentious rubbish”. There’s nothing pretentious about the Cottage in the Wood. Liam and Kath are enjoying themselves too much and their infectious enthusiasm make an evening there just plain good fun.

Wednesday, August 31st, 2011

Appleby Creamery Organic Brie

Brie and celery

If this cheese is anything to go by, we are beating the French at their own game. It’s said that there are more artisan cheesemakers in England that in France now, but I hadn’t expected to find an English Brie which was better than the French. Actually I wouldn’t usually bother with Brie, it’s just too bland for my taste, but the Appleby Creamery Organic Brie is something else. It’s the sort of thing you’ll never find in the supermarket, but it’s available at my favourite shop, Low Sizergh Barn Farm Shop. Their cheese counter is amazing (it runs the entire width of the shop) and this Brie is one of the stars. Like all Bries, it’s no good unless it’s ripe. If it feels at all firm, I stick it in the cupboard (never the fridge) until it starts to run. Then, it spreads nicely on to a stick of celery. My eldest daughter tells me that celery has negative calories, which, if you believe it, means that you can spread the Brie on thickly and eat it with an easy conscience.