If this cheese is anything to go by, we are beating the French at their own game. It’s said that there are more artisan cheesemakers in England that in France now, but I hadn’t expected to find an English Brie which was better than the French. Actually I wouldn’t usually bother with Brie, it’s just too bland for my taste, but the Appleby Creamery Organic Brie is something else. It’s the sort of thing you’ll never find in the supermarket, but it’s available at my favourite shop, Low Sizergh Barn Farm Shop. Their cheese counter is amazing (it runs the entire width of the shop) and this Brie is one of the stars. Like all Bries, it’s no good unless it’s ripe. If it feels at all firm, I stick it in the cupboard (never the fridge) until it starts to run. Then, it spreads nicely on to a stick of celery. My eldest daughter tells me that celery has negative calories, which, if you believe it, means that you can spread the Brie on thickly and eat it with an easy conscience.